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Thema: Tips for Maintaining Effortless Style

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Tips for Maintaining Effortless Style 25.04.2017 04:58 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Fashion and Beauty- Tips for Maintaining Effortless Style

Fashion is a form of artistic expression that enables you to showcase your sense of style and personality. Being a fashionable individual is simple when you know what looks good on you and you are willing to experiment with different styles.

Fashion Inspiration

Inspiration is all around you and there are various sources that can help you learn more about fashion. There are endless possibilities for combining different clothes and accessories. Your style may be influenced by various factors ranging from well-know designers to music.

Keep up with fashion industry trends and watch what people such as celebrities, style icons and fashion bloggers are wearing. This is a good way to gain inspiration and try to recreate different looks that work well with your personal style. Knowing the latest trends will prepare you for a timely wardrobe update.


Social media is a valuable resource for fashion enthusiasts with numerous fashion icons and experts that you can follow and interact with. It also gives you access to fashion updates through hashtags and posts for new style ideas.

Fashion magazines provide informative articles and visuals that give you valuable insight in to the fashion world. Even as the digital era takes over, these types of publications are still among the most popular ways for people to read about fashion. Subscribe to your favorite magazines to make sure that you never miss out on any fashion and beauty information.

Incorporate Trends

While you do not have to wear what everyone else is wearing, knowing the trends can help you stay current. Trend-setters help people identify their own styles and incorporate looks that they like. You can have your own unique style and occasionally include new trends that complement the outfits you usually wear. Click here for intimate waxing.

Wardrobe Essentials

Solid essentials are crucial for any fashionable wardrobe. Buying a large heap of cool or modern pieces that do not match anything else in your closet will make it harder to create outfits for different occasions. You will eventually run out of suitable clothes if all you have are statement pieces and no items that you pair them with.

In order for you to have a variety of options, invest in pieces such as plain outerwear like cardigans and blazers, neutral skirts and dresses that you can easily pair with other items and have a variety of outfit choices for every occasion.


The shoes you wear can either make your outfit look amazing or ruin your entire look. A dull outfit can be brightened up instantly with the right kind of shoes. Shoes should always be comfortable and on good condition. Invest in quality shoes that will last for a long time and be worthwhile additions to your outfits.


Fashion is enjoyable when you budget for it and known what you can afford. Set an amount that you can spend on clothing and shop for stylish items that are within you budget. Find the best stores for your needs and splurge on a few unique statement pieces that you can combine with your neutrals. A positive attitude and confidence will ensure that you look as good as you feel.

Ruby Brown is a freelance writer who enjoys sharing information about different topics through online platforms. She is passionate about information technology and digital media.

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Thema: The Dunnes Stores face-lift

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The Dunnes Stores face-lift 21.04.2017 05:20 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

The major dilemma of the Irish retail model these past couple of years has been the chase of profit margin, the growth of online shopping, and the rise of “fast fashion”, which forces the high-street to morph into each other. As a consequence, the retail model is left with a real lack of clear-cut signature design, no sense of personality or a point of difference.

Moving away from the nondescript knits and slightly frumpy dresses, the 72-year-old Dunnes Stores has undergone a face-lift. Affectionately coined Dunnés Boutique some years ago, it has now embraced the tongue-in-cheek nickname with an invigorated boutique-feel retail space in the Stephens Green Shopping Centre.

But the new Dunnes look is more than purely cosmetic. It has also gone in a dramatic sartorial departure by enlisting a roster of individual designers, each with their own capsule collections and signature styles.

These range from Joanne Hynes’s current array of perspex jewellery, printed dresses, and the infamous €900 shearling coat, it certainly shows no compromise of her design aesthetic. To Lennon Courtney’s clean and cool collection, the perfect antidote for work, or Paul Galvin’s male athlesiure-inspired range, complete with 70s track tops and longline bombers.

High-street giant

We can’t mention Irish retail without acknowledging the success of high-street giant Penneys, which has now spread across the fashion capitals of the world. A household name built from humble beginnings, Penneys (or Primark, as it is known internationally) has brought democracy to the high street, proving that anyone can look stylish on a budget. Tapping into the Irish psyche, Penneys has given people of all income brackets what they want: fashion that aligns with their budget and tastes.

The success of both retailers seems to be down to the fact that they appeal to customers across the generations. Rather than aiming at a particular age or monetary group, they produce pieces that a mother or daughter could equally wear. It’s about creating winning collections that deliver for real women in terms of sizing, styling and service.

Reigning supreme in terms of service and style, a slew of Irish boutiques are dominating the independent scene by offering an unrivalled experience – and in the process reinvigorating Ireland as a dynamic force in retail therapy.

3 unique floors

At the forefront of the unique experience is Om Diva, dominating three floors of retail on Dublin’s Drury street. This clever collection of up-and-coming Irish designers, laid-back vintage and eye-catching costume jewellery is all sourced by owner Ruth Ní Loinsigh.

Also offering a diverse shopping set-up is Folkster in Temple Bar, mixing vintage and contemporary fashion as well as interiors to great effect. When it comes to luxury boutique shopping in Ireland, it doesn’t get much better than Costume on Dublin’s Castle Market, which exclusively stocks cult brands such as Rochas and Vivetta. Or Havana in Donnybrook, whose stronghold is its exclusivity and contemporary design, seeking out designers du jour such as Molly Goddard, Paskal and of course, Simone Rocha.

Kalu and Gallery 9 in Naas and Samui in Cork all strive to give customers that wealth of expertise and stocking labels to lust after, including Giles, Solace London, and No21.

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Thema: New York Fashion Week

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New York Fashion Week 19.04.2017 05:22 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

CFDA tightens runway calendar for New York Fashion Week

The Council of Fashion Designers of America knows that New York Fashion Week took a hit during the fall 2017 season and now it’s already made moves to strengthen the calendar.

Specifically, the official calendar has been trimmed by a day and will run from Thursday, Sept. 7 to Wednesday, Sept. 13, eliminating the second Thursday on the lineup. The organization has also secured strong opening and closing acts: Calvin Klein and Tom Ford will show on opening day at 10 a.m. and 7 p.m., respectively, and Marc Jacobs will close the week with a 6 p.m. show on Sept. 13.

Mark Beckham, the CFDA’s vice president of marketing, who oversees the calendar, said that the feedback from international press and retailers was that the eight-day schedule was becoming too long and costly. “For the past two seasons, Marc [Jacobs] has been on the last day pretty much alone, which obviously wasn’t as advantageous to him either,” said Beckham, noting that after a couple of seasons of discussions, Jacobs agreed to move his show to Wednesday evening. For years, the final day of NYFW had been slotted with Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and finally Jacobs, but things changed when Lauren decided he wanted an evening show for spring 2017, and Raf Simons has opted to show earlier in the week for Calvin Klein.

During the last round of shows, New York Fashion Week found itself in flux. There was news that two key shows — Proenza Schouler and Rodarte — were defecting for the Paris Couture schedule. See-now-buy-now players, including Tommy Hilfiger and Rebecca Minkoff, took their shows to L.A. and weren’t guaranteeing a return to New York, and the schedule lingered on with an extremely sparse agenda on the second Thursday of the calendar. After the season ended came news that Hood by Air, which consistently delivered an interesting, boundary-pushing show, would be halting operations indefinitely. There were whispers of who would be next to leave the schedule.

When Tom Ford said that he was abandoning his see-now-buy-now strategy and planned to take up permanent residence (for now) during New York Fashion Week, CFDA chief executive officer and president Steven Kolb was elated.

“It’s important to have strong opening and closing shows,” said Beckham. “But it’s just as important to have strong designers showing everyday.”

Beckham also pointed out the domino effect calendar changes have. “The calendar is quite a puzzle. It’s not just the designers, it’s the teams, the production, hair and makeup, models,” he said, noting that the CFDA has already discussed the truncating of the schedule with the British Fashion Council to coordinate London Fashion Week efforts.

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Thema: The Story Behind the Coveted Fabergé Eggs

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The Story Behind the Coveted Fabergé Eggs 17.04.2017 04:51 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

What is the most coveted Easter egg of all? The jeweled eggs made by the House of Fabergé. The Russian jewelry design house, which was initially known for its tableware and jewelry designs, garnered an longstanding fan in Czar Alexander III thanks to its works on display at the Moscow Pan-Russian Exhibition in 1882, who commissioned 38-year-old Carl Fabergé and his St. Petersburg family jewelry business to produce a surprise Easter gift for his wife, Empress Marie Fedorovna. The next Tsar, Nicholas II, ordered two eggs each year, one for his mother and one for his wife, Alexandra, and the tradition continued until the October Revolution.

Per Fabergé, each egg, "an artistic tour de force," took a year or more to make, involving a team of highly skilled craftsmen, who worked in the greatest secrecy. From 1887 Fabergé was given complete freedom in the design and execution, with the only prerequisite being that there had to be surprise within each creation. Dreaming up each complex concept, Fabergé often drew on family ties, events central to the Imperial Court, or the milestones and achievements of the Romanov dynasty, as in the Fifteenth Anniversary Egg of 1911, commemorating the fifteenth anniversary of Nicholas II’s accession to the throne, or the Romanov Tercentenary Egg of 1913 that celebrated 300 years of the House of Romanov.

Although the theme of the Easter eggs changed annually, the element of surprise remained a constant link between them. The surprises ranged from a perfect miniature replica of the Coronation carriage - that took 15 months to make working 16-hour days - through a mechanical swan and an ivory elephant, to a heart-shaped frame on an easel with 11 miniature portraits of members of the Imperial family.

After the revolution, the Fabergé family left Russia, and the Fabergé trademark and other associated intellectual property rights have been sold several times and several companies have retailed egg-related merchandise using the Fabergé name. For instance, the Victor Mayer jewelry company produced limited edition heirloom quality Fabergé eggs authorized under Unilever's license from 1998 to 2009.

As of now, the company is owned by Cayman Islands-based Fabergé Limited, which as of January 2007, owns the entire global portfolio of trademarks, licenses and associated rights relating to the Fabergé brand. The principal investor is Pallinghurst Resources LLP, an investment advisory firm based in London and chaired by Brian Gilbertson, the former CEO of mining company BHP-Billiton plc.

In September 2009, Fabergé Limited launched its first collection of exclusive jewelry, as well as its website. It maintains boutiques in Australia, Azerbaijian, Abu Dhabi, Canada, Czech Republic, Bahrain, and plans to open a Fabergé shop in London and a retail location is also being sought in New York.

Where Are They Today?

Of the Fabergé eggs created, the majority – 50 eggs – were made for Russian Tsars, and of the 57 eggs in existence today, the majority are owned by museums and other collections worldwide, with 10 in private collections. The Winter Egg, designed by Alma Pihl, famed for her series of diamond snowflakes, is made of carved rock crystal as thin as glass. This is embellished with engraving, and ornamented with platinum and diamonds, to resemble frost.

The egg rests on a rock-crystal base designed as a block of melting ice. Its surprise is a magnificent and platinum basket of exuberant wood anemones. The flowers are made from white quartz, nephrite, gold and demantoid garnets and they emerge from moss made of green gold. Its overall height is 14.2cm. It is set with 3,246 diamonds. The egg sold at Christie’s in New York in 2002 for $9.6 million.

These rare, million-dollar Easter eggs have found their way into collections, museums and institutions across the world, from Moscow to Cleveland. For example, the Hen Egg is now part of the Vekselberg Collection (named for Russian oil and metal mogul Viktor Vekselberg, who purchased nine eggs from the Forbes family in 2004), and currently housed in the 18-month-old Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg, Russia.

Not all of the eggs have been located, however, and seven are currently thought to be lost. Until 2015, that number was believed to be eight. Another egg came to light after a scrap metal dealer perusing a flea market in the American Midwest came upon a gold egg on an intricately designed stand. Inside was a gold clock with diamond-encrusted hands. Thinking he could make at least a few hundred dollars profit by melting it down and selling the gold, he purchased the item for $14,000.

Despite his rather large investment, potential buyers told him the gold was jot worth what he paid. The man (who has remained anonymous) left the egg in his kitchen, thinking he had just thrown $14,000 away, until one day he got curious enough to Google the name on the back of the clock—“Vacheron Constantin.” After a bit more digging, he came upon this 2011 Telegraph article about the Third Imperial Easter Egg. That’s when he discovered this gold egg wasn’t worth $14,000; it was worth millions.

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Thema: Vogue Arabia

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Vogue Arabia 14.04.2017 04:59 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Conde Nast Expected to Announce New Editor for Vogue Arabia After Firing Abdelaziz

Deena Aljuhani Abdelaziz, the editor-in-chief, of newly-launched Vogue Arabia has left after just two print issues of the fashion magazine, according to the Associated Press. When asked about the reported departure Thursday, publisher Condé Nast International merely said: "We will ensure you receive the announcement regarding the new editor as and when the time is right."

Abdelaziz - who told BoF that she was fired from her position, led Vogue's nascent project when it was launched on the web last fall and through its first two print issues. The inaugural print edition published in March featured American "it" model Gigi Hadid on the cover. Saudi royalty, Abdelaziz, 42, who wed Prince Abdulaziz Bin Nasser Bin Abdulaziz Al-Saud in 1998, also founded Riyadh and Doha’s members-only boutique D’NA, one of the premium shopping destinations in the Middle East.

According to a statement from Abdelaziz: "I refused to compromise when I felt the publisher’s approach conflicted with the values which underpin our readers and the role of the editor-in-chief in meeting those values in a truly authentic way."

Although no formal announcement has been made of her successor, Vogue India is reporting that Manuel Arnaut, editor-in-chief of Architectural Digest Middle East, is in the running for the position.

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Thema: Must-Have Accessories Trend

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Must-Have Accessories Trend 12.04.2017 08:14 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Jeff Koons Makes Old Masters This Spring’s Must-Have Accessories Trend

Retro is in, and it doesn’t get much more retro than art history’s Old Masters. Seizing on fashion’s timeless trend, and taking art appropriation to stylish news heights, artist Jeff Koons is bringing some of the Western world’s most famous artworks to a high end retailer near year on April 28 in his latest brand collaboration with style house Louis Vuitton, titled the Masters Collection, reports Vogue.

Riffing on his latest series, the Gazing Ball paintings—reproductions of classic artworks presented with reflective gazing balls—the Masters Collection features recognizable works by Leonardo da Vinci, Jean-Honoré Fragonard, Peter Paul Rubens, Titian and Vincent van Gogh printed on an assortment of leather bags, scarves and keychains.

In a video interview on Louis Vuitton’s website about the collaboration, Koons described the Gazing Ball series as being about “how to have appreciation for things that came before us—for things outside the self.”

Koons himself is a well-known lover, and collector, of Old Masters works—though it’s worth nothing Van Gogh doesn’t technically fit into this category. Nevertheless, Koons joins artist Damien Hirst in taking inspiration from art history for his latest project. Hirst recently opened a show in Venice in which he appropriated the style of ancient artworks from Greece, the Mediterranean and Asia for a series of colossal sculptures.

Each bag is emblazoned with metallic letters spelling out the artist’s name, and adorned with a leather keychain made in the shape of one of Koons’ rabbit ballon animal sculptures. Discussing the bags in the video, Koons said, “There’s a reflective process about the person being interlinked with the bag…I would hope that when somebody walks down the street with this that what they are doing is they are really celebrating humanity.” Celebrating won’t cheap though; items in the collection are priced between $585 and $4,000.

If you do have the cash to burn on your own portable, monogrammed masterpiece, designs include Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa or Van Gogh’s iconic A Wheatfield With Cypresses. And for those who don’t shy away from statement pieces, there’s always Titian’s Mars, Venus and Cupid, which features a nude Venus making out with Mars, and Fragonard’s Girl With Dog, a depiction of a naked woman playing with a small, fluffy dog between her thighs.

A promotional video for the collection features animated versions of each painting bouncing along to Jesse Rose and Trozé’s song “Chocolate,” which is (at face value) about spending money on sweets, for whatever that’s worth.

“I believe that these bags are art,” says Koons. I like I’ll take the Fragonard, please, if only I can find a patron to help finance my newest accessories acquisition.

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Thema: Decoding rainbow hair

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Decoding rainbow hair 10.04.2017 04:58 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Working in fashion has its perks. You find out about new products or trends before they go mainstream and you stalk so many well-dressed women on Instagram that you can put together a mean outfit yourself. But ever so often we come across a trend that baffles us but has acquired a cult following. Fur slides, jeans that sit so low you wonder if the person wearing them is a walking commercial for an underwear brand, the stretchable plastic chokers we’re all guilty of wearing at the age of 12 (they were recently resurrected from their unfashionable grave, though only fleetingly thank god); the list is endless.

The newest trend being added to the list of fads we can’t understand but sure, let’s run with is none other than rainbow hair. The spectrum of colours is no longer restricted to prism reflections and instead has found its way into haute society by being adopted by top stylists and global stars.

To say that this trend isn’t for the faint-hearted would be an understatement. We can only imagine women (and men, looking good and feeling good about yourself is gender inclusive) who are supremely confident in their style and look taking on bright, multi-coloured tresses. Having established the fact that we’re not the biggest fans of this trend, let’s move on and actually break down what the fuss is all about.

First, let’s establish what rainbow hair isn’t: it isn’t a single colour pastel dye job (think pale pinks, sunset oranges and icy blues – an avid Instep reader will recall one of our editors taking this on). It isn’t even a two tone dye job. Rainbow hair requires having all or at least three shades of the rainbow worked into your luscious locks. You don’t have to dye your entire head of hair, you can do just roots or a hidden layer that is only revealed when you move or your hair is tied.

There are two versions of rainbow hair, bright and lite; self-explanatory for the most part. You can opt for bright hues that compliment (or contrast, whatever floats your boat) each other and are blended together to form a colour tapestry or you can play it safe (well, as safe as rainbow hair can be) by opting for the same shades but in pastel hues.

Apart from being quite a bold trend to take on, rainbow hair isn’t exactly conducive to your mane. The colour requires extensive bleaching and if there’s anything that strips your hair completely of moisture (after daily heat styling) it’s bleach. Those interested in attempting the trend should know that even with new beauty technology like Olaplex and L’Oreal’s Smart Bond, your hair isn’t a hundred percent protected and it will feel like straw for weeks after. The protective treatments definitely save your hair from being fried but there’s only so much they can do when confronted with hydrogen peroxide. Those with naturally dry, coarse or curly hair will suffer even more so because there’s already very little moisture in their locks.

If all this is too much for you (and we won’t blame you for feeling a bit weirded out and overwhelmed) then find some relief in the fact that in the normal world where not everyone wants to be a unicorn, face framing highlights, bronde (blond and brown in a delicious mix) and icy platinum still rules the hair trend report. What will you be sporting this summer?

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Thema: the catwalk in March

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the catwalk in March 06.04.2017 04:36 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

New Orleans Fashion Week sends top looks down the catwalk in March

New Orleans Fashion Week (NOFW) turned the Civic Theater into a catwalk on March 22 for its signature event-- the Top Design Competition. Now in its seventh season, founder Tracee Dundas started NOFW as a way to "continue to build and support our southern fashion industry while giving southern native-based designers a platform to showcase the amazing talent in the southern region."

Singer Ameka S. Cheatham warmed up the audience with renditions of C-Lo Green's "Crazy" before Dundas herself strut onto the catwalk to explain what the 11 designers were competing for-- a prize package that included a three-month retail presence at Hemline boutique.

Before the competition, audience members got a taste of the future generation of fashion designers with looks from Alexandra Bujan, an 11-year-old designer who was featured at the Kids Day event held the previous day at Fulton Alley Square. Bujan sent age-appropriate rhinestone embellished outfit down the runway. Her final look was a kiddie version of a Rihanna-esque ensemble-- a black tulle ballgown skirt topped off with a leather chest plate with ancient Egyptian influences.

Mimi Holaday's glam 1970s vibes won over the judges and landed her the title of Top Design winner. Her collection featured day and evening looks. A teal, ankle length coat was worn over a billowy white tunic and a peach above-the-knee skirt.

Sequins were center stage as Holaday sent out several sparkling looks including a plunging deep-V mini dress, a slit-to-the-waist slinky dress and sequin bellbottom pants paired with cropped and feathered bolero-style blouses. Clear vinyl skirts were embellished with oversized black tassles at the hem and worn over leggings.

An angelic all-white ensemble was paired with a clear vinyl corset belt with lace accents. Worn over wide leg trousers, the look was finished off with a feather bolero. Many of the models wore felt wide brim hats and tassled bowler hats, which were clearly the dominant accessory throughout Holaday's collection.

Other designers competing were Brittany Henderson, Itchel Spears, Jamie Rogers, Jane Elizabeth Gressaffa, Kiyada Upshaw, Mary Virginia Ayers, Sakeenah Ashiru, Victoria Cleveland, Victoria Henley and Viviana La Rosa.

Fashions included velvet bathing suits designed by Henderson; geometric peekaboo cut-out dresses from Spears and safari-meets-Gunne Sax from Jamie Rogers. Gressaffa sent twee, granny chic dresses and mustard yellow hot pants down the runway; Upshaw utilized punchy florals and gave a simple shirt dress a twist with bell sleeves and pastel vertical stripes.

Lions adorned several of Ayers' looks, which included a dress with a leather-like bodice and a pleated chiffon skirt. Asiru's Chinese-influenced collection included a floral kimono style jacket over a pussy bow blouse and a chartreuse drop waist dress with several rows of tassels.

Henley paired gowns and LBDs with fascinators for a night at the races feel and Rosa's body con dresses featured circular accents at the hip in shades of taupe, dusty blue, burgundy and black and white.

Top Design judges included David Leslie Anthony of Art + Design Magazine, Dr. Lisa Barona McRoberts, professor at LSU, Claire Massey, marketing coordinator of Lakeside Shopping Center and fashion designer Romey Roe.

Aside from 50 fashion shows spread out over the course of the week (March 18-24), other fashion week events included a career day, a shopping day, a kids runway day on Fulton Street Square and a meet and greet with fashion designer Pedram Pasha Taheri at Cafe Adelaide's Swizzle Stick Bar.

Last year's Top Design winner Brik Allen presented his looks in the Featured Designer show on Friday, March 24. After his big win last year, the Baton Rouge based designer went on to compete in Project Runway Season 15, where he made it to the top 10.

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Thema: Supra’s Deadly-Sharp New Sneakers

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Supra’s Deadly-Sharp New Sneakers 04.04.2017 08:32 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Week of April 3

Supra has a fresh look for skateboarders when they’ve left the board behind. The brand’s Scissor sneaker, new for fall ’17, pairs a casual running aesthetic with performance skate design. Executed with rubber landing pads and a plush Suprafoam midsole, the shoe will hit stores in several eye-catching colorways.

Week of March 27

The classic ballerina has never been so captivating. For fall ’17, French Sole New York elevated its popular ballet flat with a 2½-inch block heel covered in hammered gold. For extra panache, the Trance X pump is adorned with ultra-soft Spanish velvet for a look that could grace any palace ballroom.

Week of March 20

Raf Simons and right-hand man Pieter Mulier debuted their first line for Calvin Klein at New York Fashion Week last month. But forget about making an entrance — their tangerine Deco pumps were all about the exit. The suede fall ’17 style, with a plastic vamp, features folded backs that take cues from the art of origami. In these heels, you’ll be the talk of the party, even on your way out.

Week of Feb. 27

Slippers are coming out from under the bed this fall as Free People takes at-home dressing to a luxe level with its Hideaway scuff. Detailed in color-blocked faux fur with a street-friendly sole, it’s perfect for any party host.

Week of Feb. 20

For fall ’17, Rebecca Minkoff is ready to rock ’n’ roll. “The collection is inspired by Anita Pallenberg and the Rolling Stones’ famed cross-country U.S. tour,” said the designer. Indeed, this ribbon-laced Selena bootie, with crystal stargazer embroidery, is built to play all night long.

Week of Feb. 13

There is no want of whimsy in footwear right now, but few have been at it as long as Charlotte Olympia Dellal — or accomplish it with such panache. For pre-fall, the designer took cues from Britain’s quintessential personalities, from the regal to the rebellious, to create this chunky heeled laceup.

Week of Jan. 30

Check out Sandra Choi’s disco remix. The Jimmy Choo designer defied categorization with the pre-fall Hustle 100 mule, a retro-tinged silhouette inspired by modern-day rock ingénues. With its tough-girl studs and playful metallic Galaxy print on leather, the look broadcasts an anything-goes attitude that’s straight out of Studio 54.

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Thema: London’s Bond Street

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London’s Bond Street 31.03.2017 08:21 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Christopher Kane to Open Pop-up Shop on London’s Bond Street

Christopher Kane is planting a second flag in Mayfair this week with a pop-up shop at 15 Old Bond Street. Kane’s Mount Street flagship, a 10-minute walk away, will remain open.

The space, which spans 538 square feet, has previously been home to fellow Kering brand Bottega Veneta, and to Tod’s. A Kane spokesperson said the pop-up will stock key pieces from the runway shows as well as commercial ready-to-wear and accessories. There will also be exclusive pieces made for the store, which is set to remain open until the end of the year.

“Mount Street remains our flagship store, and the opportunity to open a second space as a pop-up on Old Bond Street is a wonderful one,” the spokesperson said. “This additional store allows us the opportunity to showcase the brand — and the universe of what we do — to a potentially wider audience of both Londoners and tourist alike.”

The spokesperson said the brand is planning various cultural events throughout the year, including collaborations with different groups and local partners. There will also be product launches and other events.

Old Bond Street, home of other Kering brands such as Gucci, Saint Laurent, Boucheron and Alexander McQueen, gets more passing footfall — from tourists and locals — than Mount Street, which is more of a destination shopping neighborhood.

Fellow British talents Roksanda, Nicholas Kirkwood and Sophia Webster have shops near Kane on Mount Street, while Kering’s London headquarters is located around the corner from the Kane flagship on Carlos Place.

Kane opened his flagship at 6-7 Mount Street in 2015, and has since hosted a series of events including pre-season fashion shows, holiday parties and life-drawing classes with the designer’s former tutor from Central Saint Martins.

Last October, the shop showcased and sold 12 artworks from the Gugging Galerie in Austria. The outsider art that Gugging is known for has long been an inspiration for Kane.

His latest ad campaign was shot at the Vienna psychiatric institution, Gugging, and he spent some time with the artists who live there, incorporating their original work into his pre-fall 2017 collection.

The Mount Street store spans 4,100 square feet over two floors and was designed by architect John Pawson.

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Thema: Leggings have sparked a new

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Leggings have sparked a new 29.03.2017 04:45 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Leggings have sparked a new, ridiculous Jean Shrimpton inspired miniskirt debate

After seasons of fashion shows and billions of dollars worth of sales, it's time to wake up and smell the cold pressed juice, leggings in 2017 are considered pants.

The debate is back in the zeitgeist again after two teenagers were refused from flying by United Airlines for wearing tights. The offenders were flying on discounted or free tickets where the dress code for such passengers states they must be "well-groomed, neat, clean and in good taste".

Fair shake of the sauce bottle if the young women had just smashed out a CrossFit session and boarded the plane in fabric still wet from wicking sweat away from their bodies, instead they were wearing the most inoffensive covering known to modern man. Some tights these days, save for the popular 7/8 style, even cover a lady's ankles, just as King George III intended.

The "rules" surrounding what people can and can't wear are fracturing. Cargo pants, the uniform of white men on European holiday, are even back in vogue after being reclaimed by the new Lara Croft, a plethora of "off-duty" models like the Gigis and Kendalls and the Jennifer Lopez's of the world (who actually never let them go).

Blokes like Mark Zuckerberg in a hoodie and Steve Jobs in his dad jeans and white New Balance kicks were onto something - comfort equals productivity.

Men in suits - especially ones that aren't tailored - look frumpy and uncomfortable, women wearing vertiginous stilettos they can't walk in is a mild form of torture. The activewear boom has taken off around the world and leggings are set to be this generation's jeans, according to Nike chief Mark Parker.

Karl Lagerfeld was early to the trend when he sent models down the runway in sneakers for Chanel's summer 2014 couture collection in Paris.

"You can be in fashion without being a victim," Lagerfeld said at the time when the fashion press expressed horror at not seeing models tottering on sky high heels.

While some Australian labels, like Lorna Jane, have come under fire for not catering to all body shapes and carrying sizes above a size 16 for a pair of $100 tights, Kmart has a more egalitarian approach with its activewear range starting at $8 for sizes 6 to 20.

Leggings are no longer the uniform of Kayla Itsines clones or gym fit bodies, the sales figures don't lie. Around the world, the sporty inspired attire industry is worth about $360 billion. In Australia alone sales are expected to increase by more than 20 per cent in the years leading up to 2020.

A recent study by Victoria University says a desire to exercise "anywhere and anytime" is driving growth, as more women try to fit informal exercise into busy schedules.

Julie Stevanja, founder of Stylerunner, an online store for fashion focused sportswear for women that is one of Australia's fastest growing businesses, agrees and even coined the term "enclothed cognition" after she launched the site five years ago. She believes the idea that clothes helps determine a person's behaviour is a driving force behind her success.

"People want to make healthier lifestyle choices. Sometimes the first step is actually associating with it, wearing something that makes you feel healthier," she said. "I think if you are in your activewear, you're probably more likely to buy a green juice than a milkshake."

Despite allowing the wearer the freedom to drop and downward dog at their desk whenever they want or need, cotton blend and Lycra kit is also a gift to the time poor who can save hours on ironing and money on dry cleaning. Not to mention the bright colourways and patterns some boast are more fun than an IKEA ball pit.

In an attempt to take down the trend last year the Washington Post opined that by wearing leggings in places other than the gym: "We are saying to the people around us that our own comfort is our first priority. We are expressing a new kind of modern vanity where dressing down, rather than dressing up, is the power move."

"What we wear sends a message to the world. An Hermès handbag makes a statement about wealth and luxury. A pair of four-inch Louboutin heels makes a statement about sex and power. Yoga pants make a statement about comfort and modernity. When we board a flight or run to the grocery store swaddled in cotton-lycra, we are saying to the people around us that our own comfort is our first priority."


Here's hoping more people break free from the shackles this sledge attempted to tighten and wear whatever they want, when they want. Even when flying.

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Thema: Models in Wheelchairs Took Over Moscow Fashion Week

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Models in Wheelchairs Took Over Moscow Fashion Week 27.03.2017 08:08 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Models in Wheelchairs Took Over Moscow Fashion Week and It Was Gorgeous

Moscow Fashion Week is rolling along quite well, literally. On Thursday, models using wheelchairs hit the runway for the NP Open World collection show at the Gostiny Dvor shopping center.

They modeled everything from red wrap dresses and leather pants to velvet gowns and tulle headpieces created by Open World, a nonprofit partnership helping to integrate people with disabilities, according to the Daily Mail. The women in wheelchairs, who ranged in age, were joined by other models who walked the runway. The mix of models proves that there is no one way to define beauty.

A model presents a creation by Russian designer Daria Razumikhina during the Fashion Without Borders show. (Photo: Getty Images)

The show was so much more dynamic since it featured models of varying heights (some sitting, some standing) — not just one tall woman after another walking down the runway.

Russia has integrated disabled people into the fashion industry for many years.

This past October, Bezgraniz Couture’s spring/summer 2017 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Russia also featured disabled models. According to the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week website, Bezgraniz Couture, which was founded by Janina Urussowa and Tobias Reisner, “promotes the creation of high-end design for the new emerging market: customers with disabilities.” The brand’s motto is, “Changing the world of fashion — we change the world.” And Bezgraniz Couture became the first brand in the world to present “functional and stylish collections for people with disabilities” during Fashion Week Russia, according to the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week website.

In 2014, designers presented collections made specifically for people with physical disabilities during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Russia. The show was called Fashion Without Borders and featured designers such as Oksana Livencova, Sabina Gorelik and Dmitriy Neu. The show featured male and female models with different disabilities. The looks included a tattooed model in a black-and-white tuxedo-style vest with a cascading train designed by Gorelik. Another model wore a blue turtleneck sleeveless sweater paired with a purple, white, yellow, and blue patterned floor-length skirt, and a model in a wheelchair showcased a Daria Razumikhina design that included a long yellow cardigan.

According to the Daily Mail, the show was focused on “increasing awareness of disability in the fashion industry and is part of a four-day fashion event in Moscow that features over 30 designers.”

But Russia isn’t the only country expanding its model base. On Feb. 6, 2014, Danielle Sheypuk made history by becoming the first woman to ever work the runway at New York Fashion Week in a wheelchair. “I would like the whole spectrum of fashion designers to tune in, all the way up to high fashion like Tory Burch, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton because, why not?” Sheypuk said of her goal in doing the show. That was Carrie Hammer’s debut fashion show, which she dubbed “Role Models Not Runway Models.” At that show, while most of the other models — who were of varying ages, body shapes, and ethnicities — wore mostly solid-colored dresses, Sheypuk stood out in a newspaper print skirt, a black multifabric blouse, and a dangling beaded necklace as she graced the runway in her wheelchair. A few months later, Hammer included Karen Crespo, a stunning quadruple amputee, in her group of “Role Models, Not Runway Models” for her second New York Fashion Week show. That day, Crespo became the first ever quadruple amputee to appear in a New York Fashion Week show. Then, a year later, American Horror Story’s Jamie Brewer was cast in Hammer’s show, becoming the first woman with Down syndrome to walk at New York Fashion Week.

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Thema: A Fashion Show Is the Ultimate Test of Patience

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A Fashion Show Is the Ultimate Test of Patience 23.03.2017 09:30 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

No one is going to tell you how much waiting time there is during a fashion show. No one except for me. I wish I could tell you it’s fast-paced and every second is jam-packed. It’s not. I got hungry while sitting front row. I also noticed the Kimoji phone case of the designer sitting across me. It was that slow.

It’s part of the process. Last year, we talked about how models have a long day, from early morning rehearsals to makeup application, and just sitting around waiting for the next rehearsal. This season was no different as I caught up with Hillarie Parungao in the makeup room. She even joked how she gets too comfortable sitting down that it takes a second for her to realize she needs to stand up for the huddle.

Pablo Cabahug said he was still able to eat that day. He was calm as I approached him. You couldn’t tell that he was still working on his finale piece upstairs. “It’s going to be okay. It’s under control,” he said. Show time was less than an hour away and Pablo was opening the first show for the new season. If I were him I would have wasted half the time analyzing how I got into this situation.

Maybe that’s why I’m not a fashion designer. Among other reasons.

This is also why the chatter among guests from the bar area until they are seated gets really loud. There’s nothing much to do but talk when you’re waiting. There’s a tension to it. There’s excitement. Come on, please stop making us wait because we’re excited to see the show and go home.

And then it gets really fast.

The first model walks down the runway and the camera flashes go like fireworks on New Year’s Eve. People hold up their phones and scramble to get the shot right. I had an internal debate with myself for two seconds whether I should take a photo or a video. Or, dear Lord, I think I wasted a perfect Boomerang opportunity. I focused on one model who had a shirt that I wanted to wear, only to see the next model coming up. Ooh, that looks good too. But, wait, did I get to upload the last video clip on ‘Stories’?

I could barely put up the photo on Instagram Stories (Please follow @preenonline, it’s where you’ll see the struggle) when the next collection is on. When Jaz Cerezo chose to play a remixed version of Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love” for her show, it made it even feel more exciting. I wasn’t even over the last set of clothes and now I have to take this in. I had to digest the varied influences immediately. How else would I be able to write this report if I didn’t, right?

It gets fast how every other person present tries to get their photos up. Everyone has an opinion. A collection that is created over countless sleepless nights gets verdict in a few minutes. That’s how fashion earned its reputation of being cutthroat. There’s a mad scramble for everything when it’s over…including booking that Uber.

I thought to myself as I went backstage to check if there was still something going on. Nada. Everyone packed up. Everyone is enjoying some wine outside and calling it a good first day. In a matter of minutes, the work of many, which has been going on for at least six months prior is done.

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Thema: How to find the right yoga class for you

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How to find the right yoga class for you 21.03.2017 05:01 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Yoga has always had a reputation for being a softer form of exercise, but in recent years it’s had a revival. Not least because several studies have revealed its endless health benefits, including a recent one in the Journal of Physical Activity and Health, which found that it can be more effective for weight loss than resistance training. In 2013 the same journal reported that doing 20 minutes of hatha yoga regularly can boost your brain power.

“A yoga practice can be as much about strength as flexibility; you’re not just looking to get bendier, but to move with control,” says yoga instructor Adam Hustler. “We spend most of our lives sitting hunched over our phones, computers and bikes and yoga helps correct this both mentally and physically.” Yoga instructor Niki Perry, who counts Kate Winslet as a regular agrees, “Yoga strengthens your core and improves your balance, which helps straighten your posture and boost your confidence.”

Olympian athletes, including Jessica Ennis Hill, have said that they complement their training with yoga, which has helped boost its popularity. It's no surprise that most gyms offer at least one, if not more, type of yoga class and is can be tricky to know which one will work best for you. Here is an easy guide to the top five types to help you decide...

What are the different types of yoga - and which is best for you?

Hatha yoga

Traditionally ‘hatha’ is the word for yoga, but in the past few years hatha classes have cropped up. In most cases hatha classes tend to be gentler sessions, ideal for beginners.

Astanga yoga

This is a more athletic style of yoga and is more physically demanding. Each pose is held for five breaths and ends in a sun salutation, so if you’re not keen on downward dogs and planks this might be one to skip.

Vinyasa yoga

If you want to recharge, but also feel like you’ve worked out then a vinyasa flow yoga class is a great option. The instructor goes through a series of poses that flow together. It bridges the gap between hatha and astanga styles.

Bikram yoga

Generally Bikram yoga sessions tend to consist of a series of 26 poses, which are performed in 40°c. It goes without saying, but you should be prepared to sweat, a lot. Drink plenty of water before and during, and pack a couple of towels (one to keep your grip on the matt and another to keep dry).

Restorative yoga

If you’re feeling seriously stressed or are recovering from an injury, restorative yoga can be a game-changer. Expect to spend a lot of time supported by a bolster as individual poses are held for between eight and 20 minutes, for each side of your body. It’s as effective physically as it is mentally.

It is worth noting though that no two yoga classes are the same and often it’s just as much about finding the right instructor as it is finding the right type...

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Thema: Thomas Sadoski Secretly Got Married

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Thomas Sadoski Secretly Got Married 18.03.2017 04:38 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Amanda Seyfried and Thomas Sadoski Secretly Got Married

ongrats are in order for Amanda Seyfried and Thomas Sadoski: After a 6-month engagement, the couple eloped last weekend.

Sadoski made the announcement on The Late Late Show with James Corden on Thursday night, showing off his ring to the audience.

"We just took off into the country with an officiant — just the two of us — and we did our thing," said Sadoksi of their Sunday nuptials. "She's the person I love and respect most in the world," he added, drawing "awws" from the crowd.

For all those wondering if Seyfried's beloved canine Finn (who has more than 46k followers on Instagram) was present, Sadoski alluded to his attendance. When asked by Corden what one does following such an intimate ceremony, he said, "you take the dog and you walk through the country."

Seyfried, 30, and Sadoski, 40, announced last November that they are expecting their first child together.

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Thema: My Hunt for the Perfect Turtleneck

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My Hunt for the Perfect Turtleneck 16.03.2017 06:55 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

The turtleneck. Worn by kindergartners, grandmothers, and beat-poet impersonators alike. Iconified by the necks of Hepburn, Jobs, Keaton. It can convey intelligence, or it can hide goose waddle. Unlike its cousin, the mock turtle, it never goes out of style.

I remember my first one: pale pink with a pattern of tiny, green diamonds. Once or twice, I blew my nose in it. Was it not a bib? From preschool into adulthood, some still consider the turtleneck to be their first line of defense — namely my best friend, Isabel, who wears them all winter. “It absorbs the sweat that inevitably comes from hauling yourself around the city in a down coat,” she explained. “Plus, it elongates the form, which is key to successful layering.”

The neck is powerful (when adorned), erogenous (when hidden), and incredibly vulnerable (mainly to vampire bites). But mostly, my neck is just cold. I needed a piece of clothing built for its existence.

Specifically, I wanted the grown-up equivalent of the comfort that turtlenecks gave me as a child, like the feeling of rewatching that Sesame Street segment from the ’80s where they visit a crayon factory. And, I wanted simplicity and modern elegance that would tuck neatly into the high waist of my Rachel Comey jeans.

I began an investigation: What was the best turtleneck on the market? I surveyed friends and acquaintances and people I must have met once — meaning, I asked Facebook. The results were conclusive.

The Everlane Pima Stretch Turtleneck came in at first place, winning by the volume of “Everlane!!!” exclamations in the comments. Runner-up was the Tissue Turtleneck from J.Crew. “You can get three letters embroidered, too. I have a navy one that says OOF.” Many commenters expressed delight at a $275 seamless offering from Wolford. These, however, were not what I had in mind. I was after something inexpensive and replaceable, something that — if successful — could be multiplied by the rainbow, something to really blow my nose in.

So it was my friend Charles’s suggestion, “I mean Lands’ End if you’re buying in bulk / many colors,” that swayed me most. Kaitlin continued to build the case, “The necks are especially high, which I like. Last week I got one in the exact same orange as Jane Fonda’s in Barefoot in the Park.” This reference to a critical cinematic turtleneck left me hot around the collar. I was sold, so I clicked add to cart.

They were both talking about the Layering Turtleneck from Lands’ End — a cotton, rayon, and spandex soufflé currently on sale in select colors for $8. Most importantly, it is not itchy — a nonnegotiable quality that if disrespected will strangle you. It is tight, but not too tight; there is some bagginess to the midsection; and the fabric is not so thin that you feel like a walking X-ray. I’ve worn it out at all times of day: dog walking in the morning in lazy leggings and my neighborhood-only shoes, to dinner at the Odeon with silver pants and lipstick the color of a traffic cone. This turtleneck is simple, soft, cheap, and gets the job done; it is a staple element that withdraws into the background, like a darkened museum vitrine casting light on just your face.

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Thema: Carlton 'Birdcage' a cheap way to join the party

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Carlton 'Birdcage' a cheap way to join the party 14.03.2017 05:41 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Looking for a perfect night out in Melbourne, the perfect part including not having to spend money?

The Plaza at the Melbourne Fashion Festival may be the ideal spot for some "fashiontainment".

Back for the second time, the "friendly, stylish pop-up" is at the Royal Exhibition Building – the hub of the 21-year-old festival – and promises a glimpse into the world of high fashion for free.

Festival chief executive Graeme Lewsey says the venue is perfect for those who love a creative atmosphere, both as a prelude to the fashion shows and as an after-party destination.

"'Fashiontainment' is the best way of summing up what we are trying to do," Mr Lewsey says.

"Our whole reason for being is to provide [the general public] this incredible opportunity to get close to the fashion industry.

"It is really important for us to democratise the industry standard of fashion weeks. We are throwing the doors open, and the idea is consumers can access this incredible world of fashion."

The Plaza is modelled after the famous and exclusive Birdcage at Flemington, he says.

"Last year saw the move to our new hub, being the Royal Exhibition Building and the surrounding area of the Melbourne Museum ... it gave us a possibility to turn that plaza area ... into what affectionately, I would probably say, is another version of the Birdcage," Mr Lewsey says.

"The concept is creating bespoke marquees and experiences for everyone to enjoy. However, there is one really significant difference and that is: it is free."

Those hoping to get a taste of haute couture can kick off their evening at the Mist Wood Tasting Bar, which has a sampling station for gin-based drinks.

Or head to Los Angeles via the Virgin Pier, where Virgin Australia is celebrating the April launch of its newest international airline route.

A replica of the Santa Monica Pier comes complete with girls on roller skates and free fairy floss.

Of course, those tempted by the action can buy runway show tickets, which start at $55 and can cost up to $205 for premium seats.

For those remaining outdoors, showtime may just be the perfect time for a beauty touch-up at the Priceline Pharmacy pop-up.

You need to score an invitation or a ticket to some of the "activations" at The Plaza, including Virgin Australia's VIP Runway Bar, but others such as the Chandon S, Lavazza and Festival Bar are open to all.

There is also a "private mirror room" at the Westfield Doncaster Mirror Mirror installation for an infinity photo or video to feed the social media beast, or catch an exhibition from the National Design Graduates collection.

A DJ at the KIIS Live Stage will keep revellers dancing the evening away.

Mr Lewsey says the Plaza is all about drawing in the crowds and keeping them in.

"It is very much about creating an elongated experience that's far beyond just viewing a runway show," he says.

"Let's not also forget the biggest thing about fashion is also dressing up and enjoying yourself and having a night out.

"And that was one of the biggest parts of what the Plaza's purpose is. It is really about making a night of it."

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Thema: ‘The Donald’ delivers three watch reviews

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‘The Donald’ delivers three watch reviews 10.03.2017 09:27 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

‘The Donald’ delivers three watch reviews, bigly

Another week, another slew of Baselworld pre-releases. OK, it might seem a bit lazy on my part to run through three more watches that will debut at the show, which runs from March 23 to 30, so how about I jazz up this week’s column by writing it in the style of Donald Trump? Yes? Here we go …

Baselworld will have all the best watches, the very, very best. A lot of people are saying that. A friend who works in the industry, a really big guy, one of the top guys, told me it will be great. Believe me. So let’s look at three more watches that will be huge. Enjoy!

Let’s start with Hamilton. A once great American brand that took all its jobs to Switzerland. Very sad. For Baselworld this year, Hamilton is offering the really, really magnificent Ventura, which was first released in 1957, and it broke all kinds of records. Oh, it didn’t? Well, someone told me that. Probably fake news. Anyway, the new version of the Ventura, the 60th anniversary edition (right), is a real great piece of watch to have on your arm. I mean, you can really eat a well-done steak with ketchup with this baby on the wrist. The watch itself has a case made of steel but it’s got a PVD coating in gold, which is great. Real class. Inside is an automatic movement that will absolutely give you 80 hours of power. And this much watch is only going to cost you HK$7,300. Now that’s what I call a deal!

Next we have the Alpina Seastrong Horological Smartwatch (left). The failing watch press will tell you that smartwatches from Samsung and Apple are killing jobs in Switzerland, but that’s not true. Very dishonest. Switzerland is coming back with great watches, such as this one, which is a mix of old and new – a hybrid smart watch. This watch tells the time but can also track your steps, monitor your sleep, offer alarms, world time and lots more. I don’t think it checks crowd sizes or television ratings, which is sad. It’s a big masculine watch, which is great if you have small hands. The 44mm case is fibreglass and the watch is water resistant to 100 metres, which is real impressive. This is not for the elites; at HK$5,900 the Seastrong should be a hit with real people. So good you’ll climb a wall, the biggest most beautiful wall, to buy it.

Finally we have the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Purity (right). I love brands named after the founder, shows real strength. This is a lovely watch, just look at those lines. Real classy. I’m sure it will be huge in China. They are taking all the best watches. What I like about this watch is it is simple. Who needs all those numbers and extra dials show ing you data? The all-new machined 42mm case is magnificent and made of white gold, which isn’t yellow gold, but still gold. The blue “fumé” dial in a sunburst pattern (you got to use air quotes with these “foreign” words) looks great and really pops. Inside is an HMC 800 in-house movement, which is very good. None of this watch is made in America, which is very sad, but all of it was made in Switzerland, which, I guess, is making them great again. Limited to 50 pieces, prices for the Purity will be released shortly, but why not try and negotiate or, better yet, get Mexico to pay for it?

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Thema: Melbourne Fashion Festival

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Melbourne Fashion Festival 08.03.2017 07:07 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

Melbourne Fashion Festival: Artistic works reveal the DNA of fashion

A function of fashion festivals is the fashioning of careers – and not just design careers.

Robert Buckingham, now creative director of MPavilion, co-founded the Fashion Design Council of Australia in 1984 with fashion illustrator Robert Pearce and jeweller Kate Durham, and was creative director of the Melbourne Fashion Festival from 1996 to 2003.

The networking and advocacy skills that Buckingham developed in his role at FDC are documented in High Risk Dressing/Critical Fashion. Credit is given to Fashion '82 and Fashion '83, staged by pop-culture live-wires Julie Purvis and Jillian Burt, as precursors of FDC's decade of fashion, music and performance events.

By lobbying for state and commercial funding, sharing information, staging runway shows, and retailing, FDC served untrained creatives such as Alannah Hill (Alannah Hill, 1997 to 2013 and Louise Love, since 2014) and fashion illustrator Angie Rehe as well as trained designers such as Victoria Triantafyllou , who launched her eponymous label in 1994.

Original participants in the highly energised FDC runway shows included the irreverent Jenny Bannister (Jenny Bannister Fashion, from 1976); and New Zealander Kara Baker (Sirens, 1984 to 1992), a designer with pattern-cutting and sewing skills.

In typical Melburnian cross-disciplinary mode, Baker went on to develop costumes with choreographer Shelley Lasic a (for Project, from 1999). Since 2009 Baker has concentrated on bespoke clothing, characterised by luxurious fabrics and the apparently effortless elegance that comes from a good fit.

These last qualities also define the work of Italian immigrant Itala Serini (1918-2006).

As you take in Serini's mid-calf-length, late-1970s patterned chiffon dress featuring a skirt with bias-cut panels and hemline flounce – with raglan sleeves gently gathered at the wrist and a scarf in the same fabric – consider the career that Serini fashioned for herself.

A seamstress at 14, Serini was married with children and working as a dress designer in Milan when the family emigrated. After a stay at Bonegilla Camp on arrival in 1950, the family moved to Hobart where Serini worked for a textile factory before setting up Itala Model Salon in Hobart in 1953.

The opportunity to design and supply clothes for the legendary Lillian Wightman of Le Louvre saw the family move to Melbourne, and by 1959 Madame Serini Haute Couture was established in Toorak. It survived the changed market conditions of the 1970s, but closed in 1981.

And that's more or less where the decade-long post-punk DIY moment began, with its reminder that even at the haute-couture level – as with Yves St Laurent in the 1950s – designers have kept an eye on street culture.

Typical of trail-blazers in all these fields is an exploratory approach to the use of materials and methods, and both of these are evident in VCA-trained artist Kate Sylvester's "de-threading" of knitted fabric to release their sculptural and graphic potential. Who would have thought the hard-worked T-shirt could be enticed back into the natural world; Sylvester turns them into drifts of gossamer.

See the moth-like silhouette of Grey Oyster Tee pinned on the back wall at Tinning Street, with its residual structural elements such as ribbing, and suggestive folds of material around a central void; while Soft Pink Pocket, an unravelled polyester tee stretched from ceiling to floor, is like the ghost of an evening gown or the spectre of wasteful consumption.

The end point of a trajectory traced across these three shows is Sylvester's spooky transformation of Melbourne label Alpha60's homage to filmmaker Wes Anderson's character and style icon Margot Tenenbaum. With its references to brand names and virtual communities, Sylvester's forensic artistry reveals contemporary fashion's DNA.

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Thema: Covering fashion with an iPhone keyboard

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Covering fashion with an iPhone keyboard 06.03.2017 07:06 Forum: Probleme & Feedback

My iPhone 5, embarrassing as that is to say, and my laptop. I am stuck with my iPhone 5 because I have a keyboard attachment for it that turns it into a BlackBerry, and which I love because during fashion shows I file reviews on my phone and they can be 1,000 words long. I can’t do that on a touch screen. I hate lugging anything bigger than the phone around since I carry so much else.

I also use the gadgets mostly to surf around Instagram and Facebook and various news sites to see what regular people are wearing during their everyday lives in places I am not. For runway trends, I just use my eyes.

You’ve written a lot about wearable technology. Are smart watches ever going to be fashionable enough to replace normal watches?

I am sure they will be at some point, but who knows when that will be? The problem is they just look too much like gadgets — or like wannabe traditional watches. Someone has to come up with a third paradigm. Then whoever does that will be in clover.

Beyond your job, what tech product are you currently obsessed with using in your daily life?

My Kindle. It’s really the only other tech product I use. I have gone through iPad and tablet phases, and smartwatch moments, but they all end up in the back of a drawer somewhere or my kids take them. I am really interested in tech that is efficient and functional and solves problems that are real problems, not theoretical ones. After that, I find it hard to get worked up.

What do you and your family do with it?

Read! Plus, a Kindle is very good to take to shows, because I am lugging a heavy bag full of stuff all day, and it is light and takes up almost no room. And it gives me something to occupy my mind during the endless minutes I spend waiting for shows to start.

What could be better about it?

The light. Shows have very complicated lighting plans and sometimes that makes it hard to read.

What is your children’s favourite piece of technology and why?

The favourite app for my 16-year-old and 14-year-old daughters are Snapchat and SoundCloud. That’s because they can use Snapchat to connect with their friends and stay in touch with those that are far away, and SoundCloud because it is easy and a good way to find new music and fun remixes.

For my 11-year-old son: Spotify, because he loves listening to music. Favourite piece of technology (from all of them): their iPhones. It is like “another limb” for them.

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